Charlie Crocker and Pam Starr in their new winery

St. Helena winery Crocker & Starr conducted their first ever commemorative vertical tasting on September 1. I, and a small number of others in the trade and media, tasted through every Cabernet Franc and “Stone Place Cabernet Sauvignon Cuvée” Crocker & Starr has released from their first vintage, 1997, through today.

Charlie Crocker and Pam Starr founded the winery to make fruit from Charlie’s estate. In 1971, he had purchased the historic Dowdell winery and vineyard which dates back to 1875. Charlie started planting Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc there in 1978. When the vines came of age, he began making wine for his family and selling grapes to other wineries.

When Pam and Charlie met, she’d been winemaker at Spottswoode Vineyard and Winery for seven years and was launching her own consulting company. She was considering his vineyard for another project when they discovered they had a common outlook on wine. They soon formed a partnership. After two decades of production in other facilities, Crocker & Starr has just completed construction of a dedicated winery near the vineyard on Dowdell Lane.

Crocker & Starr make a few different wines, including Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec. This article only looks at the Cabernet Franc and the “Stone Place” wines, largely Cabernet Sauvignon. Both use only estate fruit.

Through the 20 years of production, both wines show remarkable consistency of quality and style, while also offering a window on vintage. The wines are also quite fresh, especially for sunny St. Helena. According to Pam, the low pH soil in Charlie’s vineyard means they’ve never had to add acid to achieve this lively character.

Crocker & Starr will never be able to repeat a tasting like this. They used up the last of some vintages this time. But, while we can no longer buy some of these bottles, we can look at how they have developed to guide our purchases and the aging of wines that are available or in our cellars.

I have attached scores to the wines below because that’s what one does now. They are very good scores, some better than you might see in other, conspicuous places. It seems that these scores, probably more than those I’ve given to other wines in the recent past, show my personal bias. I’m not talking about a bias toward a person, though I greatly respect Pam Starr, nor toward a region or variety (although Cab Franc!). It’s a bias toward, grace, balance and beauty.

I don’t need wines that are inky black, rippling with muscle or which threaten to overload my taste buds. Give me a wine that’s gorgeous, unique and of which I can drink more than a glass without fatigue or loss of faculty. Wine that goes with a meal rather than being a meal unto itself.

This difference in taste and scoring philosophy is particularly stark when it comes to the “cool” vintages of 1998 and 2011. In those cases, my sensibilities are very clearly aligned with those of sommeliers rather than the sip, spit and score guys.

Cabernet Franc

At the tasting, Pam Starr said, “People like to complain about pyrazines. But, that’s what we Cabernet Franc fans love: the spice, floral notes and dry leaves.” These wines absolutely show varietal typicity, but never displayed anything close to bell pepper or even pine.

With respect to aging, I found the Cabernet Franc fell easily into three categories: lovely and at peak (1997-2001), ready to drink but with plenty of capacity to age (2002-2006) and quite youthful with charming exuberance (2007-2013).

1997 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (20% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Crocker and Starr’s first vintage of Cabernet Franc, 20 years past now, is still refined and lovely. Dark garnet color. Medium-bodied and gently fresh with fine-grained tannins still adding structure. Cigar box, graphite, drying leaves, stewed cherry and black currant. At peak. 92

1998 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (20% Cabernet Sauvignon)

This notoriously cool vintage delivered a gorgeous, long-lasting wine that is just beginning to show garnet at the rim. Aromas of lilies, spice, coffee and graphite rush from the glass. The palate has medium+ body and matching texture of very fine, soft chalk. Rich flavors of chocolate and dark cherry. At peak but improved with a little time in glass. 93

1999 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (10% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Dark ruby. Aromas of cigar box, drying leaves, rose petals and tea. Medium to medium+ body with very fine, soft tannins. A little quiet on the palate, but showing lovely dark chocolate, tea and tart red cherry. At peak. 91

2000 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Dark ruby. This one needed a little air to open up, then showed dry earth and cocoa and pretty floral notes. Medium to medium+ body with plenty of fine, chalky tannins. A wine for drinking in a British manor library—tweed suit, comfy leather chair and leather-bound classic in hand. At peak. 91+

2001 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Merlot)

Dark ruby. Aromas of stewed cherry and forest floor with both damp and dry leaves. The palate is nearly full-bodied and fresh with plenty of fine, but very grippy, tannin. Tart red fruit and stewed cherries dipped in rich chocolate. Ready to drink, but may soften and develop a bit more. 91

2002 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (10% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Opaque ruby in the glass and a little shy on the nose right now. Very floral aromatics plus black cherry and chocolate. Medium+ body with persistent tannins of very fine chalk. Rich—more black cherry and chocolate—and structured with good length. This wine is very good now but is also the first in this progression that can clearly benefit from age—if you like more developed flavors. 92+

2003 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Merlot)

Dark ruby with generous aromas of coffee, exotic spice and chewy dark cherry and berry fruit. Nearly full-bodied on the palate. Soft, fine-grained, chalky texture but fresh. Intense flavors of chocolate, coffee, spice and dark fruit. 92

2004 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Merlot)

The first wine in this flight that is still quite primary, as are all of those which follow. Dark ruby with a complex nose of chocolate, coconut, blackberry, red cherry, tea and mineral. Chocolate plus blue and purple fruit lead the palate, its medium+ in body framed by firm tannins of fine-grained chalk. Opens up with air. 92+

2005 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Merlot)

A bit tight on the nose, but showing attractive red cherry. Medium+ body with plenty of acidity balanced by very fine, grippy tannins. Coffee and dark flowers join those cherries in the mouth. Hold or decant. 92

2006 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Petit Verdot)

Purple flowers, spice, dark chocolate and dark berries on the complex, but shy, nose. The palate is structured with medium+ body, texture of fine, grippy chalk and nearly balancing freshness. Flavors match the nose. 91

2007 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (2% Malbec)

Guilty-pleasure aromas of chocolate-covered cherries and dry coconut. The super juicy palate is nearly full-bodied with fine-grained, chalky texture. Youthful and structured but very tasty. 92

2008 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (5% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec)

Aromas of coconut and dark fruit are joined by chocolate and spice on the palate. Nearly full-bodied with structure of very fine, grippy and persistent chalk. Elegant but loaded. 93

2009 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (2% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot)

Breathing time lets this wine begin to show the charms patient owners will enjoy. Richly structured with tannins that very fine, soft and chalky but also grippy and persistent. The flavors of chocolate, coffee, dark cherry and plum are somewhat muted now but go on and on. 92+

2010 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (4% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot)

In contrast to the 2008 and 2009 which have yet to spread their wings, the 2010 and 2011 are brimming with lovely, Cabernet Franc complexity right now. Dark flowers, red cherry, exotic spice and mocha on the nose. All that plus dark mineral on the palate. Medium+ body with matching acidity and tannins (very fine, soft, grippy chalk). The finish is very long and juicy. 92+

2011 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (2.5% Malbec)

This wine is gorgeous. It offers generous aromas of ripe red berries, red cherry, tea, spice and lightly roasted coffee. The palate is fully in balance at medium+. It’s juicy with texture that’s very fine and soft. Delightful flavors of violet, spice and coconut alongside the fruit. 93+

2012 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (100% Cab Franc)

Another wine in perfect balance, though leaner across the board than 2011. The nose is bright and fruit with dark flowers. The palate isn’t quite medium+, the tannins very fine. Dark berries and spice lead the flavors. I’d give this one at least another year or two in bottle to blossom. 91+

2013 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc, St. Helena AVA Napa Valley (100% Cab Franc)

I hope nobody noticed me doing a happy dance at the tasting table. This is a gorgeous, young wine that’s generous on nose and palate. There’s rich, ripe, dark fruit surrounded by caramel, carob, moist cereal, spice and coffee on the nose. It’s nearly full-bodied and so sensuously textured in the mouth. The flavors of red cherry, violets, coffee, chocolate and malt go on and on. 94

Stone Place Cabernet Cuvées and Cabernet Sauvignon

The Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon wines started out as “cuvée blend” for the first five years, not including enough Cabernet Sauvignon to be labeled varietally. The minimum for that is 75%. That changed as of 2002. Since that time, every release has been at least 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and half were 100%. The wines are all quite good, but there’s a clear step up in the varietal wines.

1997 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc)

Dark ruby with garnet edges. The nose is developed and very complex: dried black currant, graphite, dry earth, spice, stewed cherry and dry leaves. Medium+ body and freshness with lighter, very fine tannins. The moderately long flavors match the nose initially but, with air, the herbal aspects become dominant. Drink soon, don’t decant. 89+

1998 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (60% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Cabernet Franc)

Though there’s only a trace of Cabernet Franc here, this wine could easily pass for Cab Franc in a blind tasting. That’s probably due to the vintage. The nose is generous and savory, offering lily, malt, spice, dark fruit, cherry pit with graphite and other dark minerals. One taster mentioned dried kombu and that fits as well. The palate is nearly full-bodied and intensely flavorful with acidity and texture—very fine and slippery— that are nicely balanced. The finish is also generous with a slightly bitter minerality at the very end. 92+

1999 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (54% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc)

Chocolate malt and bright, red cherry on the nose. Nearly full-bodied in the mouth with moderate, slightly grippy tannins of very fine, soft chalk that are well balanced with acidity. 91

2000 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Red cherry, malt and dry leaves aromatics. Gently flavored and elegant with lovely, fine-grained and chalky texture on the nearly full-bodied palate. Very long, juicy finish. 91

2001 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (60% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Attractive and savory with aromas and flavors of graphite, dark fruit, black cherry, coffee and malt. The body and very fine, powdery and chalky tannins are medium+. Good length with persistent juiciness. 91

2002 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot)

Opaque ruby in the glass full blackberry, black currant, cherry, graphite and dry leaves. Great intensity on the nose and palate. Medium+ body with fine, soft, chalky texture. Good length. 93

2003 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot)

Dark ruby and powerfully aromatic with notes of red cherry, coffee, malt and cocoa. Balanced across the board and medium to medium+. Fine, softly chalky texture. The finish long and juicy with tangy fruit. 92

2004 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot)

Very ripe on the nose with red and purple fruit, raisin, floral notes and a balsamic edge. Medium+ body and tannins of fine-grained chalk. Generous, warming finish. 88

2005 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot)

A lovely, fruit-forward wine with aromas and flavors dominated by attractive red cherries and cocoa. Nearly full-bodied with texture of fine, grippy chalk. 92

2006 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Still young a little tight. Red cherry, dill and cocoa. Medium+ body with very fine, grippy tannins. 90+

2007 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Nearly full-bodied and rich with chocolate malt at the fore of restrained black currant and blackberry flavors and aromas. Earthy mineral shows on the palate alone. Plenty of texture: very fine and grippy chalk. 93

2008 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Earthy black cherry, cassis, exotic spice, moist cedar and coconut. All that plus chocolate on the nearly full-bodied palate. Great balance of freshness and structure (very fine, grippy powder). Long finish. 92+

2009 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Opaque ruby-purple in the glass. Very ripe, black currant aromas with a more savory palate. Medium+ body in the mouth with softish tannins of very fine powder and chalk. The texture is really lovely and balanced by juiciness. Best after a few years more in the cellar. 93

2010 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Despite my protestations above, I’m not above yummy, hedonistic wine. This is one of those. Dark ruby in the glass with intense aromas and flavors of malt, mocha, coffee, cherry, dark chocolate, floral notes and a hint of dry leaves. Full-bodied in the mouth with soft, plush tannins and great length. 94+

2011 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot)

Medium+ bodied and juicy with notes of bright raspberry, sweet herb, spice and dry leaves. Good length. 93

2012 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot)

Intense nose of ripe red cherry, mocha, spice and drying leaves. More of the same on the plushly textured palate. Medium+ body. 92

2013 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena AVA, Napa Valley (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)

Powerful aromas of coconut with black currant present in this very youthful Cabernet. Nearly full-bodied with a long, juicy finish and texture of very fine, soft chalk. Bright and fresh with many years ahead of it. 92

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. Photo courtesy of Crocker & Starr. All rights reserved.