For decades, Alsace has been, for all intents and purposes, a white wine region. The distinctive characters of Alsace Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurtztraminer, Muscat and Pinot Blanc are international reference points. Until recently, Alsace Pinot Noir, the only red grape allowed in Alsace—accounted for only 2% or so of the planted acres there. And much of that has gone into Cremant d’Alsace Rosé rather than still, red wines.

But Alsace Pinot Noir is on the rise now, in both volume and quality. As of 2016, more than 10% of the 38,460 Alsace vineyard acres are dedicated to Pinot Noir.

The style of the Pinot Noir is changing too. Due to changes in winemaking, viticulture and global warming, Alsace Pinot Noir is increasingly a serious and nuanced, attractively ripe wine.

At first glance, one wouldn’t think Alsace has much in common with Burgundy. Separated from the cold North Atlantic by the Vosges Mountains, Alsace is one of the driest growing regions in France—less than 20 inches of rain per year—and has much milder temperatures than Burgundy. Alsace is also much closer physically to both Germany, just across the Rhine River, and Switzerland, to the south, than it is to Burgundy which is some 200 miles distant.

The soils of Alsace, though, can be similar to Burgundy. In particular, there are fine, dense, clay soils in Alsace which resemble that of Cote de Beaune. You will also find limestone, marl and some granite, each of which is well-suited to Pinot Noir and not at all alien to Burgundy.

And so, the Pinot Noir vigneron of Alsace are now taking a Burgundian approach, turning their back on the thin, pale wines of the past, which were best served cold out of the fridge. Now the goals are phenolic maturity, ripe tannins and developed flavors. Alcohol levels are moderate—the climate hasn’t warmed that much—and body is light to medium. The next few years will likely see establishment of a Grand Cru Pinot Noir AOC in Alsace too.

Tasting Alsace Pinot Noir

I recently tasted through six Alsace Pinot Noir. They showed more than promise. They showed that, at least qualitatively, Alsace Pinot Noir has arrived. It can also be a bargain.

2015 Rieflé Pinot Noir Strongenberg Vineyard, Alsace 91 13.5% 750ml $26

This wine from limestone soils shows the pretty, almost ethereal side of Alsace Pinot Noir. The nose is floral—roses in particular—with pretty notes of red cherry, raspberry and tarragon. Tannins, more than balanced by acidity, are moderate with a fine, smooth and slightly firm feeling.

2012 Barmes-Buecher Pinot Noir Reserve Alsace 92 13.0% 750ml $30

31-year old vines on limestone and marl produced this savory, well-constructed wine. Flavors and aromas are centered around drying herb, forest floor and earth. Body is on the generous side of medium and the tannins firm with silky texture. Best 2018-2025.

The wine caves at Domaine Barmes-Buecher in Wettolsheim, Alsace

2012 Hubert Meyer Pinot Noir “Fut en Chen” Alsace 90 13.8% 750ml $24

Grapes from 45-year old vines on clay were whole-cluster macerated for 14 days and then aged 18 months in Burgundy barrels, one-third new. The wine is a little backward right now, closed on the nose with firm tannins. But the very fine-grained structure holds promise and I believe patience will be rewarded. Best from 2019.

2012 Vignoble Des 2 Lunes Pinot Noir “Périgée” Alsace 92+ 13.0% 750ml $23

This estate with granitic soil has been organic since 1997 and was certified biodynamic in 2007. The winemaking is low-intervention and intended to let the grapes shine without distraction. Gently handled with nothing added but a touch of sulfur before bottling, they ferment with native yeasts in concrete tanks.

The aromas and flavors are nuanced, diverse and long, with cherry, strawberry, raspberry, vanilla, flowers and dry soil. Acidity, tannins, body and intensity are in perfect balance. The texture is fine and chalky.

2015 Emile Beyer Pinot Noir “Sundel” Alsace 90+ 13.0% 750ml $50

This wine comes from a one-acre parcel within the Grand Cru Pfersigberg vineyard. The 15-year old vines are based on cuttings from the Epenots 1er Cru vineyard in Pommard. Winemaking is cool, slow and gentle with the eventual aging taking place in Burgundian barrels, only 20% of which are new. The wine shows good tension between flavor intensity, freshness and tannin with the freshness pulling just a bit harder right now. All are medium and the texture fine and chewy with some chalky persistence. Flavors are savory and lean toward dry herb and forest floor. Drink now through 2025.

Copyright Fred Swan 2017. Photos courtesy of Wines of Alsace and Domaine Barmes-Buecher. All rights reserved.