The colorful Randall Grahm

Maybe you’re looking to break out of a Chardonnay rut. Or maybe you just want a darned good white wine that has personality but isn’t all up in your face with it. In either case, I recommend you give either of the Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc wines below a try.

Bonny Doon was a pioneer in California’s adoption of Rhone varieties in the 1980’s. Over the years, founder/winemaker Randall Grahm has planted new vines, supported historic vineyards, created memorable wines that evoke the southern Rhone Valley and helped establish the Rhone Rangers organization. Bonny Doon continues to make wines that blend tradition and modernity, embracing an Old World ethos and California terroir.

The Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant Blanc wines are Golden State incarnations of Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s white blends.  There are eight authorized white varieties* in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. (Unlike AVAs in the United States, European wine regions usually dictate which grape varieties can and cannot be grown and vinified.) Bonny Doon focuses on three of those: Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc.

Bonny Doon has long focused on organic, and even biodynamic, viticulture. They’ve also adopted two other things which I heartily endorse. One is screwcap closures instead of cork across most of their lineup. The other is full, honest ingredients listing on the back label.

2013 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County 91 14.5% 750ml screwcap $28

A lovely wine of balanced richness. Measured aromas of melon, lemon peel, apple, spice and subtle white flowers. The attractively viscous palate has medium+ body and very fine, silky texture with an appetizing, underlying freshness. Flavors are generous but refined and include under-ripe stone fruit, lightly buttered golden apple, lemon and spice with saline minerality building over time.

Roussanne 55%, Grenache Blanc 26%, Picpoul Blanc 19%. Ready to drink but will age for up to five years.

2013 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc Reserve Beeswax Vineyard, Arroyo Seco, Monterey County 93 14.5% 750ml screwcap $60

The Reserve version of Bonny Doon Le Cigare Blanc gets special treatment. The wine is aged sur lie for 18 months in 5 gallon glass carboys (think glass water cooler jugs). The lees are stirred periodically and that, couple with the fairly anaerobic aging, adds depth and richness to the palate.

The nose shows honeysuckle and peach blossom and peach fruit. The full-bodied palate is silky, persistently juicy and flavorful but nuanced. The carboy treatment manifests itself with honeyed almond flavors on top of orange pith, mineral and gentle spice. Very nice indeed.

Roussanne 55%, Grenache Blanc 26%, Picpoul Blanc 19%. Ready to drink but will age for up to five years.

*The eight authorized white wine grapes of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Clairette Blanc, Clairette Rosé, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul Blanc and Picardan Blanc.

Copyright Fred Swan 2016. Photo: Sara Remington. All rights reserved.