Today I have reviews of two Garofoli Verdicchio wines from one of the best DOCs for that variety. Verdicchio is arguably Italy’s most-respected white wine grape and has been made into wine there for at least 1,500 years. Unlike Vermentino, which I covered in my last article, Verdicchio is grown almost exclusively in Italy. And more than 90% of all wine called Verdicchio is produced in just a single Italian state, Marche. [Note: Verdicchio is exactly the same genetically as Trebbiano di Soave, which grows in Lombardy and the Veneto.]

Within Marche, there are five appellations dedicated solely to Verdicchio. The largest by far is Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC, which includes both hills and plains. The other primary DOC is Verdicchio di Matelica.

There are two DOCGs, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Reserva and  Verdicchio di Matelica Reserva, which share the same borders as their DOC namesakes, but require greater ripeness and a minimum of 18 months aging at the winery. Finally, there is Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC, a sub zone of the greater DOC. The Classico Superiore sub zone is much smaller, includes only a small area of hillside vineyards, and dictates both lower yields and greater ripeness.

Wineries make Verdicchio in a variety of styles, include light, dry, white wines; richer, age-worthy, dry white wines; sweet passito wines; and spumante sparkling wines. 

The Garofoli family began making wine on a commercial basis in 1871. It’s still a family-owned company and, as of 2005, five-generations have worked there. Today, annual production is about 170,000 cases. Almost half of that is some form of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC. Garofoli owns 46 acres of vines there, with an average altitude of 984 feet, and produce several wines from those vines.

I received samples of two Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC wines. One is intended for near-term consumption, the other is age-worthy.

Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC Reviews

2017 Garofoli “Macrina” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 88+ 13.0% 750ml $14

This is a fresh, medium-bodied wine with light yellow color and classic Verdicchio flavors of underripe stone fruit, lemon, and chalky mineral. A hint of chervil adds interest. It’s lightly mouth-coating with good intensity and a clean, juicy finish. It’s a very good value wine for lunch or dinner that will work with light to moderate intensity fare, from salads and white seafood to chicken and white cheeses. The label says the wine can age for 2-3 years, but it’s closed with a plastic cork, so I would recommend drinking it within six months to a year now.

2017 Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 90+ 14.0% 750ml $25

Garofoli Podium is a richer wine, though without oak aging, and is darker and more gold in color than the Macrina. That richness also shows on nose and palate. There’s more intensity here and it’s nearly fruit-forward. The fruit is riper too—just-ripe stone fruit and tangerine pith. There’s a lovely tarragon note and beeswax testifies to longer aging at the winery. Body is medium-plus with fine texture, plus sufficient acidity and minerality to balance the fruit. Drink now though 2025.

Copyright Fred Swan 2018. Photos courtesy of Garofoli. All rights reserved.

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